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Demystifying the Fragrance Conundrum

When I was a young girl—and gosh, that was a long time ago—anything fragrant to spray

was called scent. Those slightly more exposed to the world called it perfume. The

Indian world of fragrances was limited both in product range and knowledge. The first

one I fell in love with was my father’s cologne rather than any of my mum’s perfumes.

For many years, it was my go-to. There’s no right or wrong when it comes to choosing a

perfume; however, decision-making becomes easier when armed with the right

information.

 

In the vastness of human history, perfumery has a shorter but rich and interesting story,

spread across civilisations from ancient Egypt, Mesopotamia, the Indus Valley, and the

Chinese dynasties to modern-day France, which stands unrivalled in the art of

perfumery.

 

At the turn of the century, perfumes were derived from single flowers and were named

after the principal ingredient. Today, perfumes have complex structures, made of both

natural and synthetic chemicals, commonly referred to as ‘notes’. The first perfume

created using modern chemical principles with synthetic ingredients was as recent as

1921.

 

What started out as fuming with incense (Latin per fumum, meaning ‘through smoke’)

later became a way to mask body odours. Today, perfumes are the only true luxury. A

perfume, by its nature, is unique to you since fragrances sit differently on different

people. Your scent is unique to you.

 

Now that we are talking about scent, scent, perfume, and fragrance are terms often

used interchangeably. Even though they belong to the same universe, they are

technically different from each other.

 

Scent is a smell or an odour, generally pleasant, given off by a plant, animal, or human.

For example, the scent of sandalwood or, for that matter, the scent of a woman, as in

the iconic movie featuring Al Pacino. Although the British often use "scent" as a

synonym for "perfume," technically, a perfume has a scent.

 

Perfume, on the other hand, is a fluid prepared with natural and synthetic essences for

the purpose of emitting a pleasant smell. A fragrance is a combination of organic

compounds that produces a distinct smell or odour. In other words, a fragrance is what

gives the perfume its scent.

 

I know these read like tongue twisters, but none of it takes away from the fact that we all

love perfumes with a lasting scent.

 

Perfumes are more than just pleasant-smelling scents that make you smell good. They

are now an extension of your personality, your identity. The more options available, the

more niche they have become in terms of becoming a signature statement. Long gone

are the times when people were defined by and devoted to a single scent for life. People

now enjoy exploring scents and using a variety to make a statement. Perfumes have this

rare attribute to convey the unsaid. People wear fragrances to mirror their feelings,

elevate their moods, and express their whims!

 

Where we are today is a very evolved market in sheer terms of availability across the

spectrum, from deodorants on one end to perfumes on the other. The two categories

most commonly confused amongst these are Eau de Toilette and Eau de Parfum. The

French phrasing makes it all the more difficult to understand. The key difference is the

strength of the concentration of fragrant oils, which defines the characteristics of each.

Eau de Parfum (EdP), meaning "perfume water" (French "eau" is water, "parfum" is

perfume), carries a 12%-20% concentration of fragrance oils. It strikes the right balance

between intensity and versatility. EdPs offer longevity and last anywhere between six to

eight hours. As a rule of thumb to check longevity, allow a perfume to settle for at least

half an hour so it may fully develop.

 

Eau de Parfums are penultimate on the perfume spectrum, only one place away from

Parfum or Extrait de Parfum. They are more expensive than Eau de Toilettes because of

the higher concentration of perfume oils, the core of a perfume.

 

Eau de Toilette (EdT) literally means "water for washing and dressing," or toilet water,

also called grooming water. The phrase’s first known use was in 1907 and referred to

splashing oneself with fragrant water during the toilette, or the act of grooming oneself.

EdTs are designed to be milder, with an 8%-12% concentration of fragrant oils blended

into alcohol. They last a couple of hours and are great for everyday use. People who

may be allergic to stronger fragrances often opt for Eau de Toilettes.

 

No perfect perfume has been crafted to date; the only perfect scent is the one that

brings you pleasure. Lastly, don’t let the gender label deter you from exploring and

experimenting—you may be missing out on your ‘yet favourite’ perfume, for all you

know. I moved on from raiding my dad’s cologne to using my husband’s collection

when my heart so desires!


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